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True Taste : The Seven Essential Wine Words de Matt Kramer
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True Taste : The Seven Essential Wine Words de Matt Kramer
par Vincent Messier-Lemoyne Lun 4 Jan 2016 - 16:38
L’avez-vous lu? J’ai souvent aimé Kramer dans ses articles du Wine Spectator, à l’époque où je le lisais. Je n’ai pas lu son dernier livre, mais ce qu’en dit Meadows me donne envie :
These chosen seven, which also serve as the chapter titles, are Insight, Harmony, Texture, Layers, Finesse, Surprise and Nuance.
Perhaps the most interesting, and ultimately the most useful, observation that Kramer makes is deriding the “…universal use of flavor descriptors…” as a tacit substitute for insight. In doing so he strongly rejects the argument that tasting acuity trumps the ability to connect the dots about a wine’s intrinsic quality and just as importantly, its typicity. In other words, can the taster, when writing about or discussing a wine, put aside fruit and flavor descriptors and instead provide meaningful and pertinent context? As someone who obviously writes about wine all the time, I can confirm Kramer’s main thesis that it is much easier to describe a wine than it is to arrive at incisive judgments about it. This is because anyone that is paying attention can describe the attributes of a wine but it is much more difficult to put that same wine into its proper context: is the wine consistent with the producer style; does it accurately reflect its terroir; and finally does it deliver the same, better or worse quality than one would reasonably expect given vintage quality.
Just as importantly, he encourages the reader to move beyond the populist mantra that the only aspect of a wine that really counts is whether he or she likes it or not noting that personal preference is, well, just that. He argues that this indiscriminate fixation with “I like it or I don’t like it” is not the fundamental criterion of assessing wine quality but is rather no more than a simple reflection of personal preference. Indeed he firmly suggests that real connoisseurship is the ability to set aside our stylistic preferences and assess wine quality even in one for which we don’t care for the style.
Pas un point de vue populaire, mais assurément courageux!
These chosen seven, which also serve as the chapter titles, are Insight, Harmony, Texture, Layers, Finesse, Surprise and Nuance.
Perhaps the most interesting, and ultimately the most useful, observation that Kramer makes is deriding the “…universal use of flavor descriptors…” as a tacit substitute for insight. In doing so he strongly rejects the argument that tasting acuity trumps the ability to connect the dots about a wine’s intrinsic quality and just as importantly, its typicity. In other words, can the taster, when writing about or discussing a wine, put aside fruit and flavor descriptors and instead provide meaningful and pertinent context? As someone who obviously writes about wine all the time, I can confirm Kramer’s main thesis that it is much easier to describe a wine than it is to arrive at incisive judgments about it. This is because anyone that is paying attention can describe the attributes of a wine but it is much more difficult to put that same wine into its proper context: is the wine consistent with the producer style; does it accurately reflect its terroir; and finally does it deliver the same, better or worse quality than one would reasonably expect given vintage quality.
Just as importantly, he encourages the reader to move beyond the populist mantra that the only aspect of a wine that really counts is whether he or she likes it or not noting that personal preference is, well, just that. He argues that this indiscriminate fixation with “I like it or I don’t like it” is not the fundamental criterion of assessing wine quality but is rather no more than a simple reflection of personal preference. Indeed he firmly suggests that real connoisseurship is the ability to set aside our stylistic preferences and assess wine quality even in one for which we don’t care for the style.
Pas un point de vue populaire, mais assurément courageux!
_________________
"Mes goûts sont simples, je me contente aisément de ce qu'il y a de meilleur" - Winston Churchill
Vincent Messier-Lemoyne- Messages : 8731
Date d'inscription : 12/05/2009
Age : 40
Localisation : Montréal
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» Article intéressant de Matt Kramer
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